Tag Archives: food

Within Spice Tolerance Levels: Why I like Pho

Standard

I think my palate is the definition of a paradox: my tolerance to spicy food is minimal; with just a bite of anything spicy, my eyes well up, blinking repeatedly as they widen; my breath speeds up, every exhale coming out with a fiery hotness, every inhale begging for the cool air to rush in.

But still, I always find myself ordering the item with the three red chillies sign next to it. I always scan the menu for the spicy options, a momentary amnesia blocking the tears, sweat and sharp inhales that will go with my order. And then my dish comes.

So I think that might explain why three pairs of eyes are searching my face for all of the above signs. I am sitting in front of a big soup bowl, wearing a bib, and even after a big mouthful of my Bun Tom Hue (hot and spicy juicy tiger prawn soup), my eyes are still dry, my breathing normal, my lips forming a smile.

You see, I am inside Pho, one of my favorite Vietnamese restaurants in London. For some reason, they seem to get it perfect every time. Spicy but not painfully so; hot but not scorching; the tastes are not overpowering; they compliment and complete each other, allowing all the different layers to come through in every bite.

What adds to the food is the people in Pho. The team Leader is a combination of a style icon and a service guru, always around to give you the best advice on what and how to eat (you will be surprised how necessary a bib is sometimes).

If you go there, you need to try Goi Cuon Tom (fresh summer rolls with prawns and fresh herbs), Rau Muong Xao Lai (stir fried morning glory with garlic), and Pho Tai Lan (Hanoi style soup with flash fried steak and garlic).

Where was I? Oh, yes; spoon in one hand, chopsticks in the other; back to my tear-free Bun Tom Hue!

Love,

G

We Climbed a Hill

Standard

We climbed a hill yesterday. It was dark, and we did not have a flash light. I did not have the right shoes, so my socks and feet got drenched. I did not wear the right clothes, so I felt the moisture creep from the ground in my body as I sat down on the grass. I was tipsy from the cheap wine, and full from the nice food. I was drenched and cold and tipsy and full and most of all I was content.
It was a friend’s birthday, so we met her near Primrose Hill, went in a gastropub, drank and ate, talked and laughed, analysed Flat Land and Fifty Shades of Grey, and had these moments where everything slows down and you realise how lucky you are to be walking on this earth at this point in time with these people. This moment where you feel grateful for everything you have and for everything you don’t, fuel for striving to get it, reminder of where you are in your life’s timeline.

We sang Happy Birthday of the top of our lungs, she made a wish and blew the candles, and divided the individual desert in bite sized pieces and it was the best desert I had all week.
When we walked towards the hill the streets were quiet; we were not. I was looking at my shoes, how I made them move, how they made me move. I looked up and saw that we arrived at the hill. Now up we go.

On the top, the breeze passed through us, and we sat down with our plastic cups half full of Pims and lemonade. The London skyline was so breathtaking, that I had to adjust my eyes, to adjust my mood, to open up and take it all in. The buildings lit the sky, the London eye was spinning, the Shard was solemn and the BT Tower watched us as we tried to decide which one was our favourite.

I lied down, placed my head on the knees of my friend, and allowed my body to fully relax, my muscles to surrender, my eyes closing with the weight of the day and the security of good company; and just like that, I fell asleep, on the top of a hill in a corner of a town that does not sleep.

Love,

G

20120819-195148.jpg

Infinity and beyond: the Brilliance of Yayoi Kusama

Standard

I am swimming; the water is red. White dots float on the surface. I blink. I am back in the room. The wall in front of me is painted in the signature pattern of Yayoi Kusama. I get up, blink again, and make my way to the door, knowing that the next room will be equally immersive, yet completely different.
You see, the world of Kusama reminds me the main idea behind the Being John Malcovich movie. Her work makes you feel like you are in an elevator, stuck between two floors, and the moment the doors open you peek at a slither of someone’s mind. Kusama’s work transports you straight into her mind, forces you to experience what she feels, see what she sees, be what she is. Kusama is one of the most inspirational artists I have ever seen, not only for her art, but for her actual life story.
I first encountered her work at the Walk In My Mind exhibition at the Hayward Gallery. I remember being overwhelmed by her art, the intensity of the room. It was covered in her signature red with white polka dots, with oversized plastic spheres with the same pattern everywhere. I was uncertain if I liked the intrusiveness of her room, the unease it created. I moved to the next room, and by the end, I decided that Kusama’s room was the most memorable one. I walked to the gallery shop, got her catalogue, and read the full book in one sitting.
That was 3 years ago. Since then, I followed her work online, and of course when I heard that she would have a retrospective at Tate Modern, I dug my Membership Card out, cued up, and walked into the familiar world of one of the most truly interesting artists I have seen.
What I love about Kusama is her relentless exploration of her inner state. To fully grasp her art, one must know her personal story.
Born in a provincial town in Japan and drafted in a factory to support the war effort during World War II, Kusama’s individuality was at odds with her social surroundings. She rejected the Nihonga Japanese drawing technique, taught herself about European and American Avant Garde art, and in the cataclysmic state of Japan in the aftermath of the war, Kusama developed her own style, drawing apocalyptic imagery, using the scarce resources she could find (household paint mixed with sand and seed sacks for canvases).
She kept exploring different techniques with various subject matters, developing an almost surrealistic view of ordinary items; her obsessive nature started forming, with carefully worked surfaces, hieroglyphic, tiny details, and an emerging vocabulary of forms that would make up the language of her art: eyes, dots, spiky networks and sperm-like shapes start appearing in her work. As her work began getting critical acclaim in Japan, Yayoi is moving to the United States, where she radically transformed her work. Her Infinity Net work is a triumph of the human perseverance, an almost compulsive body of work with an enviable technical facility and stamina. For these works, Kusama made small indentations on white paint that was layered on a black surface, with endlessly repeated, scalloped brush strokes. The effect is absolutely awe-inspiring, with the hallucinatory effect that accompanies most of her work.
It is integral to know at this point that during her stay in the US, Kusama experimented with drugs; a lot of drugs. She experienced hallucinatory states, and her perception of the world was skewed. It must have been very challenging for her to marry the three worlds in her life: the Japanese background; the American counterpart; and the drug-induced reality.
The Accumulation Sculptures and the Sex Obsession Sculptures are another form of this challenge, and the repetitive obsession that can be found in her work. In them, she covers everyday with a repeated motif of symbols: the stuffed fabric phalli are covering worlds, externalising her internal overtake from anxieties surrounding sex; and the macaroni, externalising her internal disgust at the over abundance of food during the post-war boom in the United States. She followed these works by her Aggregation show, where a phalli-encrusted boat laid in a room covered with a repeated motif wallpaper (3 years before her contemporary and Pop Art God Andy Warhol made his Cow Wallpaper work). This was the first of her many full-scale environments, where the viewer is immersed in her obsessively charged vision.With these works, Kusama takes an internal obsession and projects it into the physical world. This is one of the qualities that draws me to her.
In 1973, Kusama returned to Japan, just to experience a paradox: she felt like a stranger in her own land. When she was in New York, she was a foreigner, a Japanese girl; but now in Japan, she was a different kind of foreigner; a weird girl. Someone that did not fit the mould. Her unsuccessful attempts to introduce her naked happenings to a conservative Tokyo pushed her into setting herself up as an art dealer, while she was privately making collages, inspired by her platonic relationship with American artist Joseph Cornell. However, when Cornell died, the mounting pressures of her daily life, the difficult transition to her unfamiliar home, and the folding of her art dealership proved to be too much for Kusama.
In 1977, Kusama’s physical and psychological vulnerability made her voluntarily admit herself herself to a hospital, where she has remained until the present day; and this is the point that I find truly inspirational: Kusama not only continued to make work, but produced some of her finest, most powerful and successful pieces since then. She has made art, published novels, a poetry collection and an autobiography. She has a studio right across the hospital, and in the morning she goes there, works with her team, and then returns back in the evening.
I genuinely find this inspiring. For me it shows how art can be a tool to release inner demons, to cope with the reality of the unreal, of the imagined, of the intangible. She used her obsessive nature, her distorted view of the world, her weakness and strengths in ways that show the human intellectual greatness.
This is apparent in the electrifying atmosphere of her room-sized installations. As Kusama adjusted to the confined living arrangements as a voluntary inpatient, her work transports you into similar environments.
In I’m Here, But Nothing, you walk into a room, and suddenly you are in someone’s living room. However, something is odd; really odd. The room is darkened, and the bourgeois surroundings are covered with small, fluorescent dots. For Kusama, the polka dot can be visual shorthand to signify her hallucinatory visions. During her own hallucinatory episodes, Kusama sensed the physical world as overtaken by endlessly repeated forms. The room is her effort to visualise and re-stage the experience, and for us, it is an experiential understanding of how she saw the world around her.
However, my favourite room was the Infinity Mirror Room-Filled With The Brilliance Of Life. One of Kusama’s enduring obsessions has been the depiction of infinite space. In this room, she invites us to experience the infinite with her, to suspend ourselves from our senses and accompany her to her ongoing journey of self-obliteration. The room was so beautiful, so breathtaking, that I really did not want to leave. It felt like being suspended in space, so calm, so serene. I absolutely loved it.
The main reason I admire her work is the fact that she managed to channel all the negative feelings and aspects of her life into something creative. She managed to cope with the ugly by creating something beautiful; and for me, this is the one-line answer to ‘is art really necessary?’.
Yayoi Kusama is now all the rage, with a collaboration with Louis Vuitton, a documentary on her, and a renewed interest in her back catalogue.
So, you can expect to see more of her polka dots around. I personally can not wait!

Love,

G

20120805-194608.jpg

20120805-194620.jpg

20120805-194630.jpg

20120805-194644.jpg

20120805-194650.jpg

20120805-194701.jpg

20120805-194714.jpg

20120805-194724.jpg

20120805-194731.jpg

20120805-194748.jpg

20120805-194756.jpg

20120805-194806.jpg

Made of Brick

Standard

Today I walked in a straight line; from A to B. I dotted the i, crossed the t, went for a run and stood still. I drank a light ginger beer out of a can, and a bitter latte out of a glass. I walked with my hands in my pockets. I looked left; then right; then crossed the street.
I am now in a coffee shop, standing next to a row of 6 portraits. We heard the same CD twice, and the songs sounded different the second time around.

I don’t know it yet, but I will spend my afternoon walking in Brick Lane. I will be stopping every 5 minutes to take a picture of something on a wall, or of someone taking a picture of something on a wall. I will feel the sun on my face, the breeze passing through my fingers as I try to grab it. I am holding a sigh that I will shed as I move around the sidewalk. The air in Brick Lane is electric, the oxygen somehow different; a creative hub, the remnants of the weekend’s mayhem alive throughout the week. Fashion, food, art & music, an intoxicating Mecca for the now and the then. I will walk and find myself smiling. I will take my iPhone out, put The Best of Morissey on, and explore until the sun goes to sleep and the black London sky fills my heart with calmness.

For now, I am unwrapping my complimentary biscuit, and look out of the window. People walk, ride, drive, speed up and slow down, think of the day they had and the day they will have tomorrow, talk on the phone, type on their touchscreens, inhale and exhale and periodically look around with purpose, the goal to move from A to B; to dot the i and cross the t; to catch up with the earth as it revolves under and around them.

And I wander.

Love,

G

20120619-205046.jpg

20120619-205057.jpg

20120619-205112.jpg

20120619-205121.jpg

20120619-205130.jpg

20120619-205153.jpg

20120619-205143.jpg

20120619-205207.jpg

Lost in the Food Garden Cafe: Culinary Escape on the Top Floor of Selfridges

Standard

All I can see is yellow. In a rather grey London day, the only colour that stands from the crowds comes in square shapes, holds something probably expensive and definitely luxurious, and is the brightest shade of canary. Yes, the famous Selfridges bag forces me to remember number 231 in the Time Out 1000 things to do in London list: eat your way around Selfridges; and cursing the pains of investigative blogging, so I did!

Pushing the revolving doors, i escaped the seriously busy Oxford Street to enter an equally busy shopping heaven. Last time I was in Selfridges I covered the Museum of Everything exhibition (one your favourite magnificent posts), so I was eager to see if it would live up to my expectations for a second time. I hurriedly made my way through a crowded beauty hall, to the the escalators, thinking of the variety of options housed in the store.

Now if you are looking for a full-blown meal, you can try the lavish HIX restaurant (ground floor), or the contemporary French bistro Aubaine (2nd floor). You can get warm (and drunk) with one of the 20 cocktails from Gordons (1st floor), or by playing at the ‘wine juke box’ at The Wonder Bar. If you want to have your cake and eat it, then you have to try Dolly’s at the basement floor for a rather lovely (if a bit noisy) tea and cupcakes. I however decided to get something on-the-go, and where better than the Food Garden Cafe (4rth floor) to do that?

Greeted from a lovely hostess and with a tray in hand, I was absolutely spoiled for choice:
from the kebabs and curries of Tiffin Bites (Indian and Middle Eastern specialities), to the dim sum and stir fries of Ekachai (Thai and Chinese specialities); and from the signature American-style burgers at Frankies, to the classic British grub.
You can get your healthy treat at the Energy Kitchen (and for the little ones at the Annabel Karmel), and you unhealthy ones at the Crepes and Jacket Potatoes stall. You then compliment your meal with a hot or cold beverage, get the necessary cutlery and pay at the tills.

As there is nothing better than a hot soup on a cold day like today, I made mine a leak and potato one, and got a side of salted pretzels and a vitamin water (I was very proud of myself for being moderately healthy, new years resolutions still intact). I found a seat, and as I was about to dig in, I felt this amazing sense of calm. I know it sounds strange, but right in the middle of the busiest shopping street, on the top floor of the busiest shopping department store, you can feel like you are escaping the world for these few necessary moments of recharging.

After thoroughly enjoying my meal, I gave in to the temptation and went to my favourite floors.

So, if you are walking down Oxford Street and are in need of some good quality, fast served food, then Selfridges is your destination!

Love,

G

20120122-203253.jpg

20120122-203307.jpg

20120122-203315.jpg

20120122-203321.jpg